The Kalash Valleys

Kalash is the famous pagan tribe of Chitral-the northern district of the Pakistan’s North-West Frontier Province (NWFP). They practice an ancient religion and lead a centuries old way of life. The three valleys where they live are known as Kalash gooni among the Local and Kafiristan among the outsiders.

 

The three Kalash valleys Bumburet, Rumber and Birir are situated to the South West of Chitral town at distance of 40, 43 and 36 kilometers respectively. The population of Kalash is estimated to be 3660 souls according to 1998 census. The Kalash are also known as black Kafir’s because their neighbors. The esrtwile Kafirs of the Bashgal valley of Afghanistan were knows as the Red Kafirs before their forceful conversion by an Afghan King in the 20th Century George Robertson in his book the ‘Kafirs of Hindu Kush’ has given a detailed account of both Kafirs while the author of ‘Kafiristan’ Agha Mahmood Denishwar happened down a description of the black Kafirs of Kalash of Chitral.

All three Kalash valleys are connected with Chitral’s principal town through a jeepable road.

 

There are tow theories on the origin and early history of the Kalsh. Popular theory is that they are descendants of one Shalak Shaw, a General in the invading army of Alexander the great. Another theory is that the Kalash Originated from Tsiyane a country in the Tibetan belt. They shifted to Afghanistan in the early Christian era. Mahmood of Ghazni pushed them into the narrow valley of Hindu Kush in the 10th century. Until the second half of 14th century the Kalash were dominant throughout the southern Chitral. There were finally subdued by the Rais a ruling family of Chitral by the end of 14th century.

The Kalash believe in God they call “Deziao”. However their religious practices are a mixture of animism and ancestor worship. There is also a concept of male and female sacred spirits called “Dewalok” who are responsible for different activities and are belived to communicate prayers to Deziao.

There is also a concept of pure-impure dualism in Kalash religion. The pure is called ‘Onjesta’- the pure – while women are considered Pragata- the impure. During childbirth and menstruation, the Kalasha women are secluded and confined to special places called ‘Bashali’.

Rare opportunity seized by any tourist to see the colorful Kalash dance is that of a festival day. There are four main festivals of the Kalash people. The spring festival in May to safeguard the shepherds when they go out to pastures, the summer festival of harvest in August, the autumn festival in October to celebrate the grape and walnut harvest and the winter festival in December to welcome the New Year and purity the village.

Joshi or Chilimjusht (14th and 15th May): This festival is held in spring, when girls pick the first flower of the season. The days are marked by the dancing, visiting each other, exchanging flowers, milk and milk products.

Utchal (Mid-July): It is celebrated to mark the harvest of wheat and barley. The celebration lasts for two days with dancing, singing, and feasting being its main features.

Chowas: (18th to 21st December): Chowas is a winter festival celebrated to welcome the New Year. The entire population remains indoor. It is celebrated by feasting and merry making until the elders, who sit on a hill top, watching the sun reaching the orbit, then declare the advent of the New Year. They come down from the hills, light their torches, performs dances and sacrifice goats at later.

Kalash society is based on a joint family system on patriarchl basis. They lead a simple life free from hypocrisy, violence and other social evils, they never tell a lie, steal or quarrel. Though women are considered impure, yet they are not look down upon, Kalash women join the men in farming activities, as well as in singing and dancing. Girls are free to choose their life partners and have a right to divorce. Head of the village is called “ Asuqal “they use the solar calendar and their elders are expert in forcasting weather.

Dresses are the most popular symbols of the Kalash culture. Normally black in color, the Kalash female dress is decorated with beads and corals. The famous cap worn by the Kalash women & girls is called “Kopest” and it is long enough to cover the head down to the back Women’s shirts cover the whole body down to the feet and it is tied around the stomach by a special belt called “Chehare” the Kalash cuisine consists of soups and breads of various kinds and tastes.

One of the amazing skills of the Kalash artisans is the art of construction in Kalash architecture, multi-stored houses are constructed with the help of wooden pillars and stone walls supported by wooden staircases, carvings on pillars and dome like ceilings are some of the best examples of the Kalash craftsmanship.

For Kalash, singing and dancing is not only a source of entertainment, but also a part of the religion. Mucis is part of their life. The young and aged, men and women, elite and commoners all get together to sing and dance. Apart from routine practice and festivals, death in the tribe is also an occasion for singing and dancing. This is perhaps the most interesting and unique phenomenon that the kalash celebrate death rituals with singing and dancing. The duration of the rituals depends upon the socio-economic position of thedead person or his/her family . the rituals can continue for a week if the family can afford hospitality wheat, meat and butter- to the people gathered from all the three valleys. This is why there is proverb in local language that ‘ when a Kalash is buried his wealth is dug out and when he is alive his wealth is buried’ the burial however takes place when the ritauals are over.

The Kalash are famous for their indigenous wisdom. Their poetry, proverbs and folk tales are rich in realities of the universe and life itself. They are famous for their witty remarks and sharp responses. Once the ruler of Chitral built a beautiful house inside his fort. His subjects started congratulating him by saying “Sir, nobody on earh can build such a magnificent house” just to please the ruler. A Kalash elder happened to attend such an audience but did not congratulate the ruler. He asked the Kalash elder to comment on the beauty of the houses. The Kalash remarked “Sir, there is a fault”. What is the fault?” the ruler asked in “Sir, the life of an owner is always shorter than the life of the house no matter how much beautiful that may be” the Kalash elder told his ruler.

This rituals hints at same clues to the origin of the Kalash When the summer or winter rains are prolonged and life becomes difficult for huymans nad animals, the Kalash take out a precession with some of the their belongings on their heads & backs . they ascend the mountains singing a folk song, “O Deziao , if this rain continues, we would not be able to keep you Kalash goomi green and prosperous. We would no longer live here. We will go to our ancestral land of Tsiyam”. Anthropologists and historians have located the lat of Tsiyam in the vicinity of Tibet and Laddakh, where the Kalash rituals are still practiced.

The Kalash were historically predominant people of Chitral. They ruled Chitral for three centuries (1200-1400AD). They ruled Southern Chitral up till the middle of the 14th century. Remnats and ruins of Kalash forts are still visible in uchusht, and Asheret . The famous bridge over Chitral River known as Chee Bridge was also built by a Kalash ruler. The names of Bala Sing, Razhawai and Nagar Shao are still alive in the folklore of Chitral. They were the most prominent among the eight Kalash Kings.

In Kalash belief and mythology there are many characters how are represented in wooden effigies, though simple in art and craft each ‘Effigy’ is a symbol of Kalash religion. Human’s character is either a tribal hero or one of the great ancestors. Animal’s character, like the effigy of horse reflects the Kalash beliefs in animism.

  Foreign tourists require permits for visiting the Kalash valleys, which are issued @ Rs. 50/- per person at check post outside Kalash valley. (Rs. 20/- for Pakistanis). 

By Air: PIA operates three daily flights between Peshawar and Chitral, subject to good weather.

By Road: Chitral is accessible from Peshawar by the 363 Kms. Road which goes via Malakand, Dir and the 3,118 metres high Lowari Pass.

The Pass is open during the summer months only i.e. from June to mid-November. It may even close earlier due to snowfall. Transport can be hired at Peshawar through PTDC Information Centre at Dean’s Hotel, Peshawar. Tel: (92-91) 279781-4, and Jeeps at Dir from the main bazaar. Chitral can also be reached from Gilgit via the 3,734 metres high Shandur Pass. (Distance 406 kms.)

Visitors may select all or any one of the valleys and travel by jeep from Chitral town or Drosh town.

Distances from ChitralBumburet: 36 km
Birir: 34 km
Rumbur: 32 km 

There are more than two dozen hotels in these valleys. These are mostly owned by outsiders. All hotels have rooms and catering facilities. Seasonal rate fluctuation is common. Room rent should be decided with the Hotel Management. Breakfast is often included in the rent. 

Bamburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley, inhabited by Kalash, is 40 Kilometers from Chitral and is connected by a Jeepable road. 

PTDC has constructed a new motel facility at Bamburet to facilitate the increasing number of visitors who come from across the world to meet and study the social and ethnic life style of the Kafir-Kalash. The motel has a beautiful reception lounge and a restaurant offering continental and Pakistani dishes. Creation of motel facility at Bamburet is a major initiative taken by PTDC as part of its programme to promote tourism in remote areas regarded as attractive tourist destinations.

PTDC Motel, Kalash Valley, Bamburet, Dist. Chitral (NA). Tel: PP (093) 490003.
Details Single Occupancy With Tax Double Occupancy With Tax
Economy Room 600 Rs - 900 Rs
Standard Room 1540 Rs - 1820 Rs